Sunday, October 11, 2009

Spending some time in San Jose


I wanna own a dingy just like this, wouldn't hurt my feelings if it was just a little smaller.
Set piling up


Eddie the donkey. He's my friend. But i would be lying if i said his face didn't kind of freak me out, almost deathlike... hmm


trying to fall asleep and i can still feel the leash on my left ankle. I can feel the sun's burn over my whole body. every time i turn over my arms they remind me of the intense workout enduredtoday. Maybe I can't fall asleep because i keep replaying the events of today. My first real day surfing. Only caught two waves. stood up on both of them but it was over way too early. Can't wait for tomorrow.

I met richard at the costa azul surf shop. He recognized my vintage '79 ellington surfboard and came over and started talking to me while i was in the car. not exactly sure how he spotted it, since it was tucked inside of my care between the folded down seats. He was super stoked about it. I later found out that Richard is from hawaii and teaches surfing in HI, Cabo, and SoCal. He is easily one of the most laid back guys I've ever met, just really into surfing and all that it has offered him. At first glance i would have guessed 28, but a slightly thinning head of surf length hair and the instant recognition of my vintage surfboard put him back a little farther. He wanted me to take a lesson with him the following day and after letting me taste the waves with his longboard i agreed to shell out the dough and do it. Haha, he introduced me to his friends as the northern cali boy who talks like a lumberjack. ha that's a first.

1 comment:

  1. Love you new friend eddie, his face isn't so bad. But without a doubt LOVE the photo of you in mid-air jumping off the rock. Looks like a great trip so far.

    ReplyDelete